'The World' is a Norwegian-designed luxurious 12-deck cruise liner, aboard which 150-200 guests, all staying in private accommodation, live on what is said to be the world's only private sea-faring residential community (since the days of prison ships, at any rate - presumably these inmates are somewhat more willing than some of our ancestors may have been!)
The passengers and captain of the 43,000-tonne vessel choose where the liner stops and what they do ashore, and this visit to Whitehaven on the North-West coast of England had come about as a result of talks between Cumbria Tourism officials and cruise companies in a bid to entice more liners to dock in the county.
Residency prices on 'The World' range from £500,000 to £13,000,000, (although a couple might enjoy a holiday aboard, paying between $1300 and $4750 per night for the privilege) and the 644 foot long ship boasts four restaurants, a 7000 square foot spa, and onboard nightclubs, and has a crew of 250 souls drawn from 40 countries. Local businesses were praying that some of the incredibly wealthy visitors would splash some cash in this historic Georgian town, which is not known for being inhabited by wanton, well-heeled Champagne Charlies, and whose local community would benefit from an injection of cash!
A Continental-Style market had been laid on, and a 'Made In Cumbria' marquee showcased some of the arts, crafts and local produce on offer in this beautiful part of the country, as well as promoting some of the attractions within the area. Indeed a party from 'The World' would enjoy an excursion into the Lake District once the tide was high enough to allow them to board the tenders that would bring them from the ship into the harbour itself!
Needless to say, there would be plenty of free entertainment to be had,so David and I decided to take a day off from working on the house and went to see what all the fuss was about...
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| 'The World' , moored off Whitehaven Harbour, as viewed from the cliffs. |
We walked from our little house across to the cliff tops, from where we got our first look at 'The World'. Luxury liner she might be, but to my unsophisticated eyes she bears more than a passing resemblance to a Roll-On Roll-Off Ferry...the result of super-efficient modern Scandi-wegian design rather than Titanic-style Edwardian elegance, perhaps. Undoubtedly the interior is rather more awe-inspiring!
By now the weather was beginning to brighten up and sunlight began to gild the clouds. The view down onto the Harbour from this area is quite spectacular, and the tide was the lowest I'd seen, with vast expanses of sand glistening below us. Ideal bait-digging territory! Across the Solway Firth, the distant hills of Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland were clearly visible.
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| Jonathan Swift's childhood home is to the left, and The Candlestick just beyond. Below lies Whitehaven's outer Harbour. |
We wandered down the path toward the Harbour, stopping to pick blackberries. We had of course remembered to bring a plastic container, just in case. Freely foraged food is not to be sneezed at!
We got another great view of 'The World' from this path, close to The Candlestick, a local landmark. This was a ventilation 'chimney' for the Wellington Coal Mine, which was sunk in 1832. This was known to be a very 'fiery' pit, and was the site of numerous accidents including the major disaster of May 1910 which claimed 132 lives. The Wellington Pit finally ceased working in 1932.
All that is left is the Candlestick (said to be based on the design of a silver candlestick belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, who was the major local mine- and land-owner) and Wellington Lodge, a castellated building (now used by the Coastguard) which formed a fraction of the above-ground part of the Wellington Pit complex. You can just see the edge of this now white-painted building on the extreme right of the above picture.
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| The Candlestick, a symbol of old wealth. The World, a symbol of new wealth. |
After we had enough of 'brambling' we walked down onto the sands, and along the massive wall that divides the outer harbour from the inner harbour and marina basins.
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| Looking across the sands to the harbour mouth. |
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| Harbour wall. Note the pillar above, and the old Watchtower at the far end. |
The harbour wall is encrusted with mussels, barnacles and seaweed, which have a beauty all of their own.
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| Seaweed, mussel shells, cockleshells, barnacles, an oyster shell...Nature's own collage. |
We walked the length of the wall and back, then ascended the steps to the Old Quay that edges the inner harbour. The inner wall is punctuated every so often with a pillar of the local sandstone; these have weathered dramatically over the centuries.
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| Weathered sandstone pillar on Whitehaven's Old Quay |
We walked along the Old Quay and over the Sea Lock Gates which ensure that the inner harbours are areas of permanent water and no longer dependent on the tides. We walked round the dog leg known as The Devil's Elbow, and watched a fishing boat from Fleetwood being prepared for its next trip.
We then walked round onto the North Pier, and again saw 'The World', now moored off the Harbour. Lots of people had come into town to see her, both locals and folk from further away, such is the novelty of a cruise ship in the Solway Firth!
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| Juxtaposition of ancient and modern |
After marvelling at the nature of such an itinerant lifestyle, we walked back along the North Pier and along the North wall before walking along the Millennium Promenade to admire the continental market. German sausages, French, Italian, Danish and Polish bread, herbs and olives from Provence, and assorted cakes and pastries made our eyes widen and our mouths water, but not sufficiently to part us from our money!
People-watching was quite delicious enough and didn't cost a
penny!
We wandered then along the West Strand, pausing to peer into the waters of the marina to try to spy the elusive fish that we know lurk there. One gentleman suggested that they might be grey mullet but I really couldn't say. What I do know is that they are pretty big, and I may have to go down with a hook and a line one dark night...!
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| Can you see it? Just under the boat, beside the seat... |
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| This one is near the surface...the patterns on the water beneath look like a hungry shark! |
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| Now you can see it! Dinner at Eight? |
We retraced our steps towards home. By now the tide was coming in fast, and the outer harbour looked quite different.
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| This dinghy has just passed through the Sea Lock from the inner to the outer Harbour. North Pier beyond. |
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| The Old Lighthouse on the Old New Quay, and the Red and White Lighthouse on the West Pier |
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| The Old Quay separating the outer and inner harbours and a view of Whitehaven. |
Wouldn't swap days like this for the millionaire lifestyle, thanks!
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